Bearded Dragon Enclosure Size
When housing one bearded dragon, a 40-70 gallon tank is recommended because they do like to run and climb. The tank should be both long and high; the optimum size should be around 65" long and 16" wide.
You may be able to get away with a smaller enclosure, such as a 40 gallon breeder, which is 36" long, 18" wide, and 18" tall.
You can buy some tanks at low prices, or you can be creative and design one of your own by using glass and/or wood.
Do not place young bearded dragons in enclosures that are too large. They can become stressed and feel lost. It is best to house baby dragons in 10- 20 gallon aquariums, and upgrade as they grow.
Do not purchase the screen aquariums to house bearded dragons, as they do not allow the proper temperatures. The airflow with a screen enclosure minimizes the temperatures.
Bearded Dragon Cage
Filling the Enclosure
Substrate:
The enclosure should have some sort of substrate. Where many people disagree with loose substrate, playsand, paper substrates, potting soil (without perlite), and alfalfa pellets, can be used, but not recommended. If you choice to go with a loose substrate, Never use cedar. Regardless the type of substrate that you choose to use, daily cleaning is necessary to provide a healthy environment.
For smaller and younger Dragons, paper towels or turf should be used because they will try to eat sand and small rocks, which could lead to a trip to the vet. As dragons become six months and older, their eating habits become better, meaning they do not eat as many small rocks when hunting. This is the perfect time to switch substrates from paper to a turf substance. When changing to a turf substrate, sand is a better choice because when the dragon goes to the bathroom, its mess can be cleaned using a kitty litter scooper, and then thrown away.
Personally, I disagree with loose substrates, ESPECIALLY, calcium-based sands. I recommend using paper towels, reptile carpet, or a tile base such as slate.
The reason behind not using loose substrates is that, they can cause impaction when ingested. Impaction can result in death.
Décor:
Bearded dragons are best kept separately. However, for multiple bearded dragons, you must increase the size of the aquarium, so that there is a proper number of shelter places and basking spots.
For shelter, you should have rocks, wood/ branches, and possibly plants.
Also recommended for the bearded dragon's tank, are plants. Although many dragon keepers say that fake plants are dangerous to bearded dragons because they may eat it, both real and fake plants can be safe it just depends on your dragon. If live plants are placed in the tank make sure that the soil does not contain perlite (the small white balls) because Dragons like eating them, although it makes them sick. Snake plants, small palms, and jade, are a few recommended live plants. You must make sure that the plants won't be eaten or ripped up very fast, and that they will be able to survive in the temperatures inside the tank.
In the wild, bearded dragons love to climb, so as a pet, they must be given items to climb on, such as drift wood. Drift wood can be expensive if bought at pet stores, and it can be infested with different types of bugs and mites. If you get your drift wood from outside, make sure that you cleanse it with bleach and water, so that when it goes into the tank, it is bug-free.
You can try reptile hammocks, but because bearded dragons become a little heavy weighted, they can weigh the hammock down until the suction cups fall from the walls.
Lighting
The lighting in a bearded dragon enclosure should include an incandescent spot light and a full-spectrum light. The ultraviolet light is very important to a bearded dragon's life as it provides the vitamin D3, and if a bearded dragon does not receive enough of vitamin D3, he may die (along with the lights, put a vitamin supplement in their food).
Using UV-B and UV-A bulbs has a positive physiological effect on the animal. It can stimulate activities, such as the appetite, activity level, general health, and they may play a role in the reproductive behaviours. Theses bulbs are a little costly, and must be replaced once every six months. Just like heating bulbs, they should be set on timer, about 8-10 hours daily.
Remember: full-spectrum tubes should not be placed too close where the beardy can touch the tube, but at the same time the UV from the tubes only reach about 6-8". Have a perch or log that is near the top, but too close where the beardy can reach up and get burned.
Proper UV lighting is essential! It can help to prevent metabolic bone disease.
Heating
Proper temperatures are also extremely important. As with other reptiles, a temperature gradient should be provided, as well as a basking spot. The gradient should go from 80-85 F (26-30 C) on the cool side, up to a basking temperature of about 95-105 F (35 -40 C). Night time temperatures can fall to approximately 65-70 F (18-21 C). Heat can be provided via an incandescent light or ceramic heater (make sure a ceramic socket is used), or a mercury vapor bulb (again, use a ceramic socket) in a dome reflector hood. You may need to experiment with wattage and distance from the cage to provide appropriate temperatures. Use thermometers in the cage to monitor the temperatures at the basking spot, as well as either end of the gradient (never rely on estimates!). If necessary, and undertank heater can be used to supplement the heat especially at night if the room temperature is very low. A consistent light-dark cycle (12 - 14 hours light) must be provided (using the lights on a timer is the best way to ensure a consistent cycle).
DONOT used heat pads or heat rocks INSIDE the tank because they may burn the bearded dragon!
When housing one bearded dragon, a 40-70 gallon tank is recommended because they do like to run and climb. The tank should be both long and high; the optimum size should be around 65" long and 16" wide.
You may be able to get away with a smaller enclosure, such as a 40 gallon breeder, which is 36" long, 18" wide, and 18" tall.
You can buy some tanks at low prices, or you can be creative and design one of your own by using glass and/or wood.
Do not place young bearded dragons in enclosures that are too large. They can become stressed and feel lost. It is best to house baby dragons in 10- 20 gallon aquariums, and upgrade as they grow.
Do not purchase the screen aquariums to house bearded dragons, as they do not allow the proper temperatures. The airflow with a screen enclosure minimizes the temperatures.
Bearded Dragon Cage
Filling the Enclosure
Substrate:
The enclosure should have some sort of substrate. Where many people disagree with loose substrate, playsand, paper substrates, potting soil (without perlite), and alfalfa pellets, can be used, but not recommended. If you choice to go with a loose substrate, Never use cedar. Regardless the type of substrate that you choose to use, daily cleaning is necessary to provide a healthy environment.
For smaller and younger Dragons, paper towels or turf should be used because they will try to eat sand and small rocks, which could lead to a trip to the vet. As dragons become six months and older, their eating habits become better, meaning they do not eat as many small rocks when hunting. This is the perfect time to switch substrates from paper to a turf substance. When changing to a turf substrate, sand is a better choice because when the dragon goes to the bathroom, its mess can be cleaned using a kitty litter scooper, and then thrown away.
Personally, I disagree with loose substrates, ESPECIALLY, calcium-based sands. I recommend using paper towels, reptile carpet, or a tile base such as slate.
The reason behind not using loose substrates is that, they can cause impaction when ingested. Impaction can result in death.
Décor:
Bearded dragons are best kept separately. However, for multiple bearded dragons, you must increase the size of the aquarium, so that there is a proper number of shelter places and basking spots.
For shelter, you should have rocks, wood/ branches, and possibly plants.
Also recommended for the bearded dragon's tank, are plants. Although many dragon keepers say that fake plants are dangerous to bearded dragons because they may eat it, both real and fake plants can be safe it just depends on your dragon. If live plants are placed in the tank make sure that the soil does not contain perlite (the small white balls) because Dragons like eating them, although it makes them sick. Snake plants, small palms, and jade, are a few recommended live plants. You must make sure that the plants won't be eaten or ripped up very fast, and that they will be able to survive in the temperatures inside the tank.
In the wild, bearded dragons love to climb, so as a pet, they must be given items to climb on, such as drift wood. Drift wood can be expensive if bought at pet stores, and it can be infested with different types of bugs and mites. If you get your drift wood from outside, make sure that you cleanse it with bleach and water, so that when it goes into the tank, it is bug-free.
You can try reptile hammocks, but because bearded dragons become a little heavy weighted, they can weigh the hammock down until the suction cups fall from the walls.
Lighting
The lighting in a bearded dragon enclosure should include an incandescent spot light and a full-spectrum light. The ultraviolet light is very important to a bearded dragon's life as it provides the vitamin D3, and if a bearded dragon does not receive enough of vitamin D3, he may die (along with the lights, put a vitamin supplement in their food).
Using UV-B and UV-A bulbs has a positive physiological effect on the animal. It can stimulate activities, such as the appetite, activity level, general health, and they may play a role in the reproductive behaviours. Theses bulbs are a little costly, and must be replaced once every six months. Just like heating bulbs, they should be set on timer, about 8-10 hours daily.
Remember: full-spectrum tubes should not be placed too close where the beardy can touch the tube, but at the same time the UV from the tubes only reach about 6-8". Have a perch or log that is near the top, but too close where the beardy can reach up and get burned.
Proper UV lighting is essential! It can help to prevent metabolic bone disease.
Heating
Proper temperatures are also extremely important. As with other reptiles, a temperature gradient should be provided, as well as a basking spot. The gradient should go from 80-85 F (26-30 C) on the cool side, up to a basking temperature of about 95-105 F (35 -40 C). Night time temperatures can fall to approximately 65-70 F (18-21 C). Heat can be provided via an incandescent light or ceramic heater (make sure a ceramic socket is used), or a mercury vapor bulb (again, use a ceramic socket) in a dome reflector hood. You may need to experiment with wattage and distance from the cage to provide appropriate temperatures. Use thermometers in the cage to monitor the temperatures at the basking spot, as well as either end of the gradient (never rely on estimates!). If necessary, and undertank heater can be used to supplement the heat especially at night if the room temperature is very low. A consistent light-dark cycle (12 - 14 hours light) must be provided (using the lights on a timer is the best way to ensure a consistent cycle).
DONOT used heat pads or heat rocks INSIDE the tank because they may burn the bearded dragon!
